Trabzon – Trapezunt

After approx. 200 m we come to a large intersection, where on the left stands the recently restored Ortahisar Cainii (also called Fatih Camii or Buyuk Camii). This is the former Church of Panhagia Chrysokephalos (Our Lady of Złotogłowa) built in the 13th century, from the beginning it served as a cathedral. It was not only a bishop's temple, but here, too, almost all emperors from the Comnenian dynasty who ruled the lands on the Black Sea were crowned. Most of them rest here too. A Roman temple once stood in this place, later a small church, and only on their ruins a cathedral was built, it was rebuilt many times. It was supposed to derive its name from a gilded dome or a fresco in the apse depicting the Virgin Mary with a beautiful, golden halo. The church was originally built as a three-nave basilica with two narthexes (atria) – external and internal. Later, its construction was significantly changed, adding a dome (in her 12 windows) i transept, therefore today it would be difficult to guess, what is the actual building plan, especially since the narthex surrounds it on three sides. Low galleries run above the aisles. Wooden planks, and there are carpets on them, cover the mosaic floor (similar to the Yeni Cuma mosque) and frescoes in the apse and on the walls.

After visiting the mosque, we head west (along Zagnos Cad.). Having crossed the bridge (walking along it, let's turn left to the rear, and we will see the city walls), we will be near the tower, under which stands the historic Abdullah Pasa Cesmesi fountain. On the left side we have the Atapark park, where there are several tea houses, and the statue of Ataturk stands in the center. We go through it (we pass renovated, a historic granary), to be at Gulbahar Hatun Camii. The mosque was erected in the years 1505 – 06 by order of Sultan Selim I for his mother Ayse Hatun, also called Gulbahar, that is, the Spring Rose. She was a Greek from the Comnenian dynasty. The mosque was not completed before her death, but a turbe was put up for her at once, where it rests to this day. The complex was actually completed only in 1514 r. belonged – except the mosque and the tomb – madrasa, hospice (kitchen) and a hamam. The mosque has survived to the present day (in classic Ottoman style) and turbe. It was the first Ottoman foundation in the city after it was taken over by the Turks.

We return to Zagnos Cad. and we go straight north on Resadiye Cad., along the walls, passing the tower on the right. We enter Kahramanmaras Cad. Through the first gate. and we go straight east. After a few hundred meters we have to find a small street that turns right (behind the Muftu Ismail Efendi Camii mosque on the left side of the street) – Misinlioglu Sok. To the right, a bit deeper, there is a small Kccuk Ayvasil Kilisesi (church of st. Anny). It is probably the oldest Byzantine church in Trabzon (was established in the 7th century, and it was restored already in 884 r., what the inscription above the portal informs about). The building has the shape of a basilica; inside it was decorated with frescoes. Unfortunately, today the monument is not open to the public, even though it has recently been refurbished. There is an underground crypt under the church.

In Trabzon, you can still go to the Boztepe hill, from where there are wonderful views of the surroundings, and to Ataturk's villa. Both of these attractions are located on the outskirts of the city. To the beautiful Ataturk Kosku (Willi Ataturk), approx. 4 km southwest of the center, we can get by bus from the stop at Ataturk Alam (with the word Kosk, 0,25 USD). The house was built in years 1870 – 1903 as a summer residence for the merchant Konstantin Kabayanidis. In years 20. it was given to Ataturk, who has stopped here several times. After his death, a small museum was opened in the house. To the Boztepe hill (ok. 2,5 km southeast of the center) we will take a bus (napis Boztepe; 0,25 USD) from the same stop, as for the villa. On the way, we will pass the ruined monastery of Panhagia Theoskepastos (Girls Monastery). It was a nunnery founded on the hillside during Emperor Alexius 111 (mid-fourteenth century). It is interesting, that it was abandoned by Greek nuns only in 1923 r. On its territory there is the tomb of Alexius' son – Andronikos. There are also miserable remains of the frescoes (w XIX w. they were still in good shape). The temple of Apollo used to stand on the Boztepe hill in antiquity, later a Byzantine church and finally a mosque. Today it is a popular weekend destination for city residents.

It is also worth mentioning about Kaymakli Manastiri, Armenian monastery, away from 5 km south of the city. We can get there by buses from the stop at Ataturk Alam (direction: Cukurayir). The construction of the complex was probably started in the 9th century., but it was completed only by the Armenians at the beginning of the 14th century. Currently, it is privately owned by a Turkish family of farmers, because the government did not take care of the monument. If we get the keys to the main church (today it serves as a barn) from one of the family members, this is sure to surprise us with its interior with well-preserved 17th-century frescoes. The second building near the church has no frescoes, and today it serves as a stable.